Fixed sling or extendable sling?
If you climb trad, you've surely been in this situation more than once: you place a cam, keep climbing, and when you look down you see the rope tugging at it. You need to extend that piece to avoid rope drag and reduce the risk of the rope's movement shifting the cam, or even pulling it out of its placement.
That's exactly what extendable slings are for.
For years, fixed slings have been the standard configuration on many cams. Yet more and more manufacturers are adding extendable slings to their models. Black Diamond took its time, but it eventually adopted this solution on its Camalot C4 Extendable from size #0.75 to #3.
At 4c+, we've been modifying cams with extendable slings for ten years (or rather 40 years, if you count the 30 years our predecessor Mike Cuaz ran the shop, then called Blue Light), and we think it's one of the most worthwhile upgrades you can make to your trad climbing gear. See cam re-slinging service.
1. More length when you need it
The main advantage of an extendable sling is obvious: you can adapt the length of the piece to each placement.
In trad climbing, it's not always possible to place a cam exactly where you'd like. Sometimes you have to use a specific crack, even if it isn't perfectly lined up with the path of the rope.
An extendable sling lets you extend the piece without having to add a quickdraw.
And when you need even more length, those extra 10 cm can make all the difference.
That doesn't mean you can always do without a quickdraw, but it does mean you can reduce the number of extra draws you need to carry and place.
2. A time-saving trick
Nobody taught me this technique, but I use it every time I extend a cam with an extendable sling.
The trick is to let the cam's carabiner hang free and clip the quickdraw only into the loop of sling that holds the stitching, then pull on it and clip the rope. This way you take advantage of the extra length of the extendable sling without any fuss, which simplifies the manoeuvre and saves you precious time on trad routes.
3. What about sling wear?
Black Diamond's fixed slings have an extra wrap of webbing where they connect to the cam's stem. This design increases the bend radius and protects the webbing at that point.
However, since the sling is always fixed in the same position, contact with the rock is repeatedly concentrated on the same spot, causing localised wear.
With extendable slings, the sling can slide and the friction isn't concentrated in one specific area. That doesn't mean they're immune to abrasion: you also need to keep an eye on their condition, especially if they come into contact with edges, abrasive rock or rough surfaces (watch out for Velcro!).
In any case, we recommend inspecting slings regularly and retiring any gear showing damage or wear that doesn't comply with the manufacturer's recommendations.
4. Can extendable slings be fitted to every cam?
Some yes, some no. The requirement is that they have a thumb loop. All cams have a loop that the sling passes through. If your thumb fits through this loop, two wraps of sling will fit too, so it will be possible to install an extendable sling.
Example of a cam without a thumb loop.
Exceptions: Totem Cams and DMM
Totems have a unique configuration and we don't replace their sling in our workshop; we recommend going directly to the manufacturer. See Totem Cams.
DMMs have 2 small holes for the 2 wraps of sling. We can replace their sling, but ours is thicker and doesn't slide as smoothly as the original.
5. Can you also fit fixed slings or single slings?
Of course. In fact, many cams only accept a single wrap of sling, in which case we install single slings.
At the customer's request, we can install single slings or Black Diamond-style fixed slings. It's not what we recommend, but not everyone has to agree.
An extendable sling offers more versatility, lets you better adapt the length of each piece and can save you a few quickdraws on a route. But some climbers prefer the simplicity of a fixed sling and have their gear perfectly organised with that setup.
What matters is choosing the solution that best suits the way you climb.
6. When should you replace the slings on your cams?
There are two things to consider: the condition of the sling and its age.
Each manufacturer states in the instructions for use how long a piece of PPE can be used. In general, this is expressed in two ways:
- X years from the date of manufacture
- X years of storage + Y years from the date of purchase
As for condition, a sling exposed to sun, weather, abrasion, etc. will age faster than one kept somewhere dry and dark. As a rule, if you're wondering whether your sling needs replacing, it needs replacing. But it's your call!
7. Cams with fixed or extendable slings? It's your choice.
At 4c+, we've been upgrading cams with extendable slings for ten years (or rather 40). We're delighted to see that manufacturers like Black Diamond have also adopted this solution on their Camalot C4s.
If you want to enjoy the benefits of an extendable sling, or if you prefer to stick with the classic setup, the choice is yours.
At 4c+, you can buy your Camalots with a fixed or extendable sling, along with many other trad protection pieces.
4c+ — Trying Hard Since Forever.